The island cuisine is one
of the aspects of our culture that visitors generally know least
about. It is however, highly interesting and can provide some
very pleasant surprises for anyone who fancies a change from
their usual diet or the dishes on offer at many international
restaurants, whilst they are on holiday.
◄ Wine
The origins of vineyards in the Canary Islands, and
particularly in Tenerife, date back to the time of the
conquest by the Kingdom of Castile. The varieties of
grapevine brought by settlers tended to be white, suitable
for making strong wines, which were easier to conserve.
Varieties of grapes that produced lower quality wines
were known as "vidueños", whereas fine wines included
above all Malmsey, originally from Greece. Wines made
from this variety were considered the best in the world,
and could be found in all the Courts of Europe and in
the best cellars of both the Old and the New World,
with "Sack" and "Canary" becoming the flagships of Canary
Island wines.
In the 16th and 17th centuries, wines and vines played
a fundamental role in both the economy and society of
Tenerife, reaching a peak in the second half of the
16th century, with the sugar crisis.
Historians and writers of the time made many references
to Canary wine, including those made by Sir William
Shakespeare through his different characters and literary
descriptions, mainly through Falstaff, who he calls
the "barrel of Canary", and Sir Walter Scott in "Ivanhoe".
The following is a quote from Shakespeare´s "Henry IV
part II" - act 2, scene 4 - when Mistress Quickly says
to Doll Tearsheet: "But i faith, you have drunk too
much canaries and that´s a marvellous searching wine,
and it perfumes the blood ere one can say: What´s this?".
In the "XII National Competition of Young Wines" (Vintage
of 97), the Tacoronte-Acentejo local vineyards, "Bodegas
Insulares de Tenerife S.A.-" won the following prizes,
awarded by the Spanish Wine Tasters´ Union (U.E.C. from
its initials in Spanish):
. Golden Bachus (1st prize) for the red "Viña Norte
carbonic mashing" . Golden Bachus (1st prize) for the
red "Viña Norte mashing in the barrel" . Silver Bachus
(2nd prize) for Viñan Norte rosé.
In the same competition, another local vineyard, "Valle
de la Orotava" won:
Silver Bachus (2nd prize) for the white "Valleoro traditional
white, fermented in the barrel"
◄ Fish
The fish here is delicious and, according to critic
Xavier Domingo, it is just as good as any in Spain.
Dishes are usually very simple; boiled fish - or "sancochado"
as they say here - seasoned with oil, vinegar and hot
peppers, or with "mojo" - the typical local dip. There
are different versions of "mojo", but you will always
find it on any self-respecting table in the Canary Islands.
There is green - coriander - mojo and red, or hot mojo.
The most popular fish here among the local people is
parrot fish, with its delicate, white flesh, but other
tasty fish include snapper, dentex and saupe. Members
of the tuna family abound in the waters around the islands.
They are delicious served fried, grilled or soused:
chub mackerel, sardine and especially blue jack mackerel
(chicharro in Spanish) which has become a nickname for
Santa Cruz and by extension for the whole island. The
people of Tenerife are known as "chicharreros". There
is one marine species that must not be missed: the Moray
eel, fried and crunchy, it was the favourite dish of
Roman Emperors and, for some reason or another, it has
been neglected by modern gourmets. In the cooler, damper
parts of the island, a fish stew is ideal, usually dusky
or comb grouper, served with the fish stock, thickened
with "gofio": flour made from ground and toasted corn.
◄ Meat
In the meat section, mention must be made of a dish
called "carne de fiesta" (festival meat), which consists
of, chunks of seasoned pork. It owes its name to the
fact that it is the dish that is usually served in all
the popular festivities, served from stalls and bars
during the village fiestas. Goat´s meat, in all its
different varieties, and rabbit in "salmorejo" sauce
which, like most of the fish dishes, is served with
"papas arrugadas" - potatoes boiled in very salty water
and served in their jackets to conserve all the flavour
of the outstanding island varieties of potatoes. These
come in all sizes, textures and colours, although the
best ones are "bonitas" and above all, the "negras menudas",
dark on the outside, yellow on the inside, they are
delicious.
◄ Desserts
Canary Island confectionery is rich and varied, maybe
because it is the final dish of a good meal. "Huevos
moles" - egg yolks, sugar, cinnamon and lemon peel,
"bienmesabe" -almond paste/sauce - and whey are just
some of the typical desserts to be found in Tenerife.
Many of these dishes can be served with a topping of
palm honey; originally from La Gomera, it is made by
boiling the sap from the highest most inaccessible part
of the palm tree.
◄ Cheeses
Fresh goat´s milk cheese is often served as an hors
d´oeuvre to the main course. The cheeses of the Canary
Islands are recovering their good reputation, they have
won important prizes and awards in recent international
dairy shows. Up until the 40´s and 50´s, when there
were large herds of cattle on Tenerife, cheeses were
made from varying portions of cow´s milk mixed with
goat´s and sheep´s milk. Nowadays, goat´s milk cheese
predominates, which can be 100% goat´s milk, or mixed
with sheep´s milk, which makes it creamier. It is sometimes
still mixed with cow´s milk as well. Although it is
sometimes matured, and occasionally smoked, cheese is
usually served fresh, as it has a pleasant and mild
flavour, distinguishing it from certain European varieties
of goat´s milk cheese.
◄ Mojos
"Mojo", a word probably of Portuguese origin, is the
Canary Island term for their typical sauces or dips.
Not all sauces are called "mojos", just the typical
ones that are originally from the Islands, so, for example,
there are no mayonnaise "mojos", that would be a sauce,
but there is a coriander "mojo". The best known "mojos"
are coriander - or green - "mojo", although the green
colour comes from the parsley it contains, "colorado"
- or red - made with lots of paprika, and hot "mojo",
made from chilli pepper. These are the main "mojos",
but there are others, including ones made with saffron
and cheese and almonds.
◄ Gofio
"Gofio" is a flour that can be made from almost any
kind of grain. It is toasted and ground to give a fine,
wholemeal flour. In Tenerife the most common "gofio"
is made from wheat, although it is also made from corn
and occasionally from chick peas. There is also a "gofio"
made from a mixture of wheat and corn. "Gofio" was the
staple diet of the Guanches before the Spanish conquest
of the Islands. They used mill stones to make it. Nowadays
it is used as an added ingredient to many different
dishes, and is now even being used very successfully
to create new desserts and ice creams. It was always
a vital staple when food was in short supply and was
taken to the Americas by Canary Island emigrants. In
1990, the "Canary Island Gofio Producers Association"
was founded, which has successfully promoted gofio and
won it its own quality label "Gofio Canario".